Via Fashionista.com

Now that a major publishing company has been sued by an unpaid intern, others may be reforming their own internship programs in the interest of avoiding a similar situation.

Specifically, we’ve heard from a few reliable sources–two of whom work at Condé Nast–that the the publishers of Vogue, W, GQ, etc. have recently implemented a series of new changes and regulations for interns. And from what we’re hearing, it sounds like Condé internships are going to be some of the most tightly regulated in the fashion industry.

The following changes, we are told, went into effect for this semester:*
• Interns aren’t allowed to stay at the company for more than one semester per calendar year unless granted special clearance by Human Resources.
• Interns are required to do an orientation with HR where they are told to contact them if they are working unreasonably long hours or are mistreated.
• Interns can only work until 7pm and their security badges will actually be modified so that they won’t work after 7pm–meaning they won’t be able to get back into the building after 7 (making any late-afternoon errands or pickups particularly stressful)
• Interns are given stipends (around $550 for the semester)
• Interns have to receive college credit to be eligible for an internship.
• Interns will have to have official mentors
• Interns are only allowed to work on tasks related to the job at hand and no personal errands

So why now? A source inside Condé said:

Rumour has it that the changes came because Conde was about to get in serious trouble with the Labour Department because the intern program really resembled free workers, and with the unemployment rate being so high, Condé should hire people to do what interns are doing.

While we thought these changes may have been in response to the Hearst lawsuit, it turns out they’ve been in effect since the beginning of the semester–though it’s possible that someone at Condé found out about the suit before we did.

Regardless of whether or not Condé’s overhaul was related to the suit being brought against Hearst, it is clearly a response to people questioning the legality of unpaid internship, which has been going on for a while. And the rules, for the most part, seem fair. Although the security badges shutting off at 7pm seems a little extreme, as does the rule that prohibits internships going on for longer than one semester. One of our sources weighed in:

I think it’s a shame interns can no longer stay at Conde for more than one semester, since it’s the real cream of the crop of places to intern for magazine experience. I’m still super grateful for my internships and the experience I’ve earned, and I know I’ve learned a lot. I do think the changes made everyone a bit more aware of the interns, which helped out a lot. Hopefully they don’t lose steam with the changes.

Incidentally, unpaid internships were the subject of the Times’ Ethicist column this weekend. In addition to pointing out that even illegal internships can prove beneficial to the interns, Ariel Kaminir spoke to Elizabeth Wagoner, a lawyer who worked on Xuedan Wang’s case against Harper’s Bazaar, a Hearst publication. Wagoner had two suggestions for an unpaid intern distraught over the legality and ethicality of her job (this was the query posed to the ethicist): 1. File a lawsuit, or, 2. Call the Labor Department confidentially and tell them the position isn’t legal (Perhaps that’s what a Condé intern did, prompting the aforementioned changes). Kaminir then concludes the piece with,

But don’t tell them it hasn’t been educational. After all, it has already taught you something about the values of the field you hope to enter. Does that make you wish for a better field? Or just a better internship?

Do you think Condé’s new policies are a step in the right direction? And should interns start filing lawsuits, like Wagoner suggests?

*None of these policies have been officially confirmed by Condé Nast. We reached out to them for comment but have not heard back.

10:28 pm  •  12 March 2012  •  8 notes

cfda:

       Project Runway is now casting! Have what it takes to show your stuff at New York Fashion Week? This is your chance!

http://www.bmpcasting.com/casting/pr/

4:36 pm  •  22 February 2012  •  12 notes

carlala:

Many of you write in asking for advice as to whether or not your internship tasks are “allowed.” The below should help you determine if your internship complies with the law — it can be found in its original form on the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s website. Although this was found…

2:56 pm  •  3 February 2012  •  15 notes

Can be read at Fashionista.com

Former Harper’s Bazaar intern Xuedan Wang’s suit against Hearst for violating state and federal wage and hour laws has certainly got people in the industry talking.

One thing in particular that’s stood out is neither the unsavory working conditions of unpaid internships (read: long hours, menial tasks, putting up with serious attitudes), nor the lack of compensation (whether by stipend or college credit) but the fact that, as Wang’s lawsuit states, “the prevalence of the practice nationwide, curtails opportunities for employment, [and] fosters class divisions between those who can afford to work for no wage and those who cannot.”

Internships can be a great way to break into the industry–actually we’d argue that they’re pretty much the only way to break into the industry (so far, anyway–all of us here at Fashionista, save Leah, started as Fashionista interns first). But could fashion’s heavy reliance on unpaid interns be creating an unfair disadvantage for kids who don’t have their parents’ money to back them up? We asked several industry insiders, all former interns who now work at major publishing houses, and though none would go on the record (out of fear that their publishers are now targets for these kinds of suits), the general consensus was a resounding yes.

“[Internships] foster and encourage [kids who have access to money]—not the kid who actually has to pay his or her own bills,” another editor told us. “So if there are two great and equal candidates and one will cost the employer a full salary and one will cost nothing, fashion will take the latter. And if the latter has a famous last name to go with it, well, it’s no contest.”

Of course, there are always exceptions. “I get how unfair it is,” one editor counters. “My mom’s annual salary when I was in college was $25,000 a year. And my dad gave us nothing. But I still made it. And I think there is a crazy sense of entitlement with this generation and that maybe working for free and waitressing to make ends meet teaches you a lesson.” What’s more, those who hustle often fare better in the end–they want it more and they’re grateful to have “made it.”

Still, another editor posits that fair or not, it’s just how the game is played. “I think that rich kids have an advantage anyway, whether it’s an ‘unfair’ advantage relates to how you see our society and economic infrastructures,” he told us. “I see magazines as a competitive industry that is closer to acting or art than, say, investment banking. In any creative industry, the first jobs are low paying (or don’t pay at all) and people have to work other jobs or borrow to counterbalance those disparities.” Fashion, film, media and art are glamorous covetable careers and breaking in is just plain tough.

“I think it’s just unfair the way that life is unfair,” he added. “But I think it’s only remarkably unfair if the person going into an internship or apprenticeship was promised something, in terms of compensation, and then did not receive it. But if you took the job knowing you weren’t going to get paid, then I think it’s unfair for you to complain about it after.”

Still, the problem is that if unpaid internships are, for the most part, only available to kids who can afford to work for free, then the industry as whole winds up having a disproportionate amount of people from only one socioeconomic background. And that leads to editorial content that can be stale, elitist, absurd–or all three. See: Vogue‘s ridiculous (and infamous) $31, 349 glamping article. Or this gem from Elisabeth von Thurn und Taxis, Vogue’s new Style Editor at Large, when asked what parties she looks forward to: “Our wild boar shoot at our home in Germany is always a riot because we invite lots of friends. We spend the day out in the woods, but then we get all dressed up in long gowns to dance around in the evenings.” (Yes, that’s real.)

But could the industry actually change? A few editors suggested that interns be paid at least minimum wage, while others said they should receive school credit and a daily stipend. One suggested that a change in attitude might be all it takes: “Yes interns have to do bitch work but if you respect them and talk to them like adults that might make it ok,” an editor said.

“I guess if magazines took half the money they spend on cars and shoots and putting editors up in the Ritz four times a year they could afford to pay their interns,” one editor quipped. While another told us that as long as an intern is receiving solid mentorship and is learning and making connections then it shouldn’t matter if they receive college credit or financial compensation.

2:47 pm  •  3 February 2012

carlala:

from the New York Times
By STEVEN GREENHOUSE

5:23 p.m. | Updated A former unpaid intern for the fashion magazine Harper’s Bazaar filed a lawsuit on Wednesday, accusing its parent company, the Hearst Corporation, of violating federal and state wage and hour laws by not paying her even…

2:27 pm  •  3 February 2012  •  16 notes

1. Generals (name, current position, hometown)
Sara Flores - Fashion Director, Bollare Communications New York - Los Angeles, CA

2. What your current job entails/ describe a typical day
In 2008 I joined Bollare in LA, running the VIP Services Team and building the West Hollywood showroom into a stylist resource. Last year, I opened our New York office and accepted the role of Fashion Director, running the east coast operations which includes overseeing efforts for 50+ clients and the VIP relations and digital consultancy teams. Needless to say the day is never typical and the days are always busy!

3. How did you first become interested in fashion?
In junior high I saw Diane Keaton in the film Annie Hall and I was in complete awe.

4. What is your favorite part of your job?
It is ever evolving. No two days are the same! Also, the people. Between my incredible mentor Alle Fister, amazing team & diverse, talented clients, I have had the opportunity to work with some brilliant individuals.

5. Where have you interned in the past?
My first internship was with BLOOMINGDALE’S Corporate. From there I interned at BCBG Max Azria Group in both the Licensing & Marketing departments.


6. What was your most memorable internship and why?
My internship at BCBG was really my most influential internship as I got to work for multiple departments, start my career, & hone in on my love for public relations there.

7. What you wish you had known when you were an intern?
Keep in touch with your managers and fellow interns. They are valuable resources and keeping these relationships will prove to be mutually beneficial over the years as we all grow in our careers.

8. Do you have any tips for interns on how to best succeed at an internship and how to best go about landing a job after an internship?
Work hard, and work fast and always have a positive attitude.

9:31 am  •  17 January 2012  •  1 note

1. Generals (name, current position, hometown)

Danielle Prescod, assistant editor at Moda Operandi, New York, NY

8:03 am  •  16 January 2012  •  10 notes

1. Generals (name, current position, hometown)

Micaela Erlanger, Stylist and Senior Stylist Assistant to Annabel Tollman

2. What your current job entails/ describe a typical day

Typical?! There is no such thing. Days start EARLY and often go LATE, sometimes even overnight. I will be hunched over my computer literally sending out hundreds of emails trying to get clothing in for clients. There are days when I am trying to handle email requests, along with attending appointments, shows, press days. Sometimes I am traveling, sometimes I am local, and sometimes I don’t sleep! And that isn’t even half of it. There is the office management side of things as well as overseeing my assistant and interns, managing expense reports, budgets, billing, etc.

3. How did you first become interested in fashion?

Born with it! Followed by a degree from Parsons

4. What is your favorite part of your job?

Being around beautiful things, meeting so many influential people, traveling!

5. Where have you interned in the past?

Various PR firms, Conde Nast advertising department, Cosmopolitan Magazine intern to Features Fashion Editor, intern to Annabel Tollman (celeb stylist), intern to Leslie Fremar (celeb stylist).

6. What was your most memorable internship and why?

Cosmo helped me realize that I really wanted to be in fashion. But working with Annabel was the most valuable- it taught me everything that I know now and gave me the skills to do it on my own!

7. What was the most valuable piece of advice you received?

Turn your internship into your job. Make yourself INVALUABLE and IRREPLACEABLE. 

8. What you wish you had known when you were an intern?

Save every single contact, email, phone number you are ever given. (Luckily I did know this and I followed this advice). Having contacts is EVERYTHING. Also, don’t be afraid to ask questions- never assume.

9. Do you have any tips for interviews/resumes?

Please keep it one page, succinct and to the point. Highlight your experience and expertise. Please no typos, grammatical errors, and check your tense…or else I’m putting your resume immediately in the garbage. Send a HAND WRITTEN thank you- immediately following your interview. It makes a world of a difference. Be as relaxed and natural as you can be in your interview, and be prepared. Research the company and bring several copies of your portfolio and resume.

10. Do you have any tips for interns on how to best succeed at an internship and how to best go about landing a job after an internship?

Think ahead. If something needs doing- don’t wait to be told, just do it! You will be appreciated for this. Put in the hours, show up early and stay late without being asked to do so. Ask questions, and double check everything you do. Make yourself invaluable and create a job for yourself.

9:07 pm  •  15 January 2012  •  5 notes

1. Generals (name, current position, hometown)

 Samantha Ouellette - PR Manager at Camuto Group (Vince Camuto and VC Signature) - Port Jefferson, NY

2. What your current job entails/ describe a typical day

I’m responsible for creating brand strategies, be it for a season, event and/or special project, and oversee everything is executed properly when relaying all news/product to the media.  In addition, I seek sponsorship and celebrity opportunities that are brand appropriate, create press releases, manage budgets for the department and work closely with the brand’s external PR agency..And let’s not forget maintaining and growing relationships with editors, producers, bloggers, stylists and journalists!           

3. How did you first become interested in fashion?

I’ve always been interested in fashion (what woman isn’t), but if you asked me 10 years ago what I thought I’d be pursuing as a career, it would have been one of the last things to come to mind.  I studied Health and Exercise Science as an undergraduate and obtained a Master’s degree in Liberal Arts shortly after. It wasn’t until I had the opportunity to learn, travel and explore life that I realized a lot of the things I was genuinely interested in and some of my best characteristics fell into the realm of being a publicist.  I was living in California at the time I applied for a summer internship with a fashion PR agency in New York, and the rest is history.

4. What is your favorite part of your job?

Overall I love what I do, and that’s most important.  Aside from that, the people I’ve met along the way, some of which have become my closest friends, and after all of the hard work nothing brings a larger smile to my face than seeing the end result - be it a great placement, feature or celebrity that is photographed wearing my brand’s product. Last and certainly not least, I love seeing my former assistants or interns soar into phenomenal careers of their own - it’s a proud big sister kind of moment. 

5. Where have you interned in the past?

Factory PR

6. What was your most memorable internship and why?

Seeing I’ve only had one, the gold medal goes to Factory PR.  All joking aside, it was an incredible company to intern for and the experience I gained while there is invaluable.  I ended up freelancing with them at the end of my internship and after working at another agency for a year, went back to Factory full time.  My former colleagues are amongst some of the most intelligent and talented individuals I’ve had the pleasure to work with and will always hold a special place in my heart. 

7. What was the most valuable piece of advice you received?

Often times, the biggest thing holding you back is yourself. Let go. 

8. What you wish you had known when you were an intern?

Memory tells me these times are worth working for… (thank you, Local Natives) 

9. Do you have any tips for interviews/resumes?

Get in the habit of keeping your resume updated on a constant basis so whenever an interview opportunity may arise, you’re prepared and don’t stress over compiling all of your experience onto one, well read, piece of paper.  Be on time for all interviews (and by on time, I mean 10-15 minutes early), make sure to bring printed copies of your resume on appropriate paper and dress for the position.  Stay poised, act confident and ambitious, not arrogant, and most importantly, be yourself.  

Lastly, conduct some research on the company you’re interviewing with and be up to date as to what is going on with it in the media (or if it is the media, what it has recently covered) - these are always great reference points in conversation and will be sure to make a     positive impression, as it shows you’ve done your homework and are genuinely interested in the opportunity. 

10. Do you have any tips for interns on how to best succeed at an internship and how to best go about landing a job after an internship?

Keep an open mind and if granted the opportunity to be involved in a new task, do so - you’d be surprised how something you never dreamed of doing will all of a sudden peak your interest when actively involved.  

Check in with your supervisor before leaving each day and provide an update as to where you are with your project(s) so collectively you can discuss highlights and challenges, and receive feedback. If asked to stay late from time to time, do so gracefully - think of it as a chance to learn something new and showcase yourself… it’s noticed. 

I always say there’s no excuse to not be polite and kind to people and believe it’s important to abide by this in both your personal and professional life.  For as big as they are, fashion and all related industries (music, entertainment, etc.) are rather tight knit communities and you never know who you may work with again, when you’ll need a reference or when someone will ask the same from you.  Excel with your professional responsibilities and don’t forget to be a good person along the way.

8:56 pm  •  15 January 2012  •  1 note

1. Generals (name, current position, hometown)

Ade Samuel, Fashion Assistant at Teen Vogue Magazine, Bronx, NY

2. What your current job entails/ describe a typical day

I can tell you now, there is never a typical day in the fashion closet! My day varies, but overall I am in charge of sample trafficking for the Teen Vogue fashion closet. This includes ready to wear, accessories, jewelry and technology. I also coordinate the shipments for all our photo shoots; as well occasionally assist the editors with attending previews, events and market appointments during the week.

3. How did you first become interested in fashion?

I have always had a love for fashion and an interest in dabbling my creativity in every aspect of it. I started out wanting to be a designer, then a buyer and now I’ve become very interested in styling. I find the artistic viewpoints of many stylists fascinating, as well I admire their ability to create stories through clothing. Till this day, I continue to study the craft in hopes of having that as a career.

4. What is your favorite part of your job?

My favorite part would have to be the preparation process! I love having a part in our photo shoots, from hearing the references to seeing the inspiration boards; it’s always exciting to witness the final layout prior to the magazine hitting the stands.

5. Where have you interned in the past?

I was a former intern at Tractenberg & Co, IMG World assisting Fern Mallis during fashion week, Diane von Furstenberg PR, W Magazine and then I landed an internship working with the Teen Vogue Accessories Director Shiona Turini before being hired as Fashion Assistant.

6. What was your most memorable internship and why?

I would have to say my most memorable internship was W Magazine. It was my first editorial internship and opened a whole new world and perspective of how editors and stylists work. I gained a great amount of knowledge on the RTW and accessories markets as well my designer vocabulary increased (which was a major plus!) It was such a great experience and growing point for my career.

7. What was the most valuable piece of advice you received?

To take one day at a time, dream big but stay focus on what you want and continue to network. This advice came from stylist James Worthington Demolet while I was his assistant and it has become extremely valuable to me!

8. What you wish you had known when you were an intern?

That networking and keeping in touch with your contacts are very important skills. I was lucky to have maintained a memorable relationship with all my internship managers as well the editors I met during Fashion Week. This eventually landed me multiple internships.

9. Do you have any tips for interviews/resumes?

Yes! I have TONS. The number one tip I usually give my interns is to make sure their resumes and cover letters not only look professional (remove the headshots, please!) but that it is clear of typos. A cover letter should be personalized to your interviewer and avoid massively sending out the same cover letter (trust me, this industry is small!)

Tip 2: When interviewing, exude confidence! Although you might be nervous (which we ALL get), stay focused and emphasize your skills that will be beneficial to the internship team.

Tip 3: Study Study Study! Knowing the company as well the people you hope to work for will give you an advantage during your interview process.

10. Do you have any tips for interns on how to best succeed at an internship and how to best go about landing a job after an internship?

Stay motivated; take initiatives, work hard and you will be recognized for it. Although this is the fashion industry and appearance has great significance, trying to be recognized for your look rather than your work ethic will not help in the long run!

11:33 am  •  7 January 2012  •  13 notes